May 2007 archive

Premium Denim at Premium Prices

Practicality may have once ruled over price in the denim market but that is certainly no longer the case.  With denim prices now soaring well into the triple digits, I am sure consumers are starting to wonder just what exactly they are paying for. 

An October 2005 San Diego Union Tribune article, entitled "Denim Has Legs,"  takes a closer look at the explosion of higher priced premium-jeans.  The article acknowledges that within the past five years the denim market has gone through some serious changes.  It has been "transformed, with so-called premium - which provides a superior fit and styling- becoming one of the hottest segments of the apparel industry. 

What exactly factors into these higher priced denim jeans?  To begin with, premium denim lines are almost always created exclusively from Japanese or Italian denim.  More time is taken in fit factor considerations when it comes to premium denim, many brands cater to different body styles or are constructed in a way to attract a certain shape of customer.  Even though denim is important, many of the premium brands are entirely manufactured in the United States, raising the total cost of manufacturing and thus this cost carries over to customers. Finally, and lets be real here, the ‘celebrity factor' cannot be overlooked.  Names like Jessica Simpson and even Justin Timberlake are synonymous with the most popular denim brands there are.  Elise Carter, a blogger at StyleDash mentions this in a blog post earlier this year.

So why do I think doling out money on a great pair of fitting jeans is a good idea?  I truly believe that a great pair of jeans makes for a smart investment because you can virtually wear them everywhere.  With many styles, washes and cuts to choose from, there is a pair of jeans for almost every occasion.  Whether it's to the office, out with friends or on a hot date, you simply cannot go wrong with a terrific fitting pair of denim jeans!

What do you think?  Is premium denim a wise investment?

What is an Orginial Hem?

Have you ever wondered how to get your jeans to be the perfect length and still preserve their unique styling details and leg opening?  Well, the answer is simple.  An original hem (sometimes called a tricky hem or European hem) maintains the integrity of your jeans because the original hem of the jean is kept in tact. Original hems can be done be cutting the jeans or by following the  uncut method.  Daily Denim agrees that original hems may change the common misconceptions people have about hemming jeans.  Jeans, just like almost every other item of clothing, may need a bit of tailoring to achieve a perfect fit.  It just so happens that length is the easiest alteration you can make to help you achieve a perfect fitting pair of jeans.  Original hems are the perfect solution for anyone who does not want to loose the signature look of their jeans.

Sure, there are some common misconceptions about what an original hem may do to hurt the look of your denim.  In a great post on DailyDenim a few of these were mentioned, such as: The flare is lost once hemmed, getting clothing hemmed is a hassle, even issues having to do with stitching and destruction on the hem being lost once hemmed is discussed.  Many of these common assumptions are disproved in this blog post.

True Jeans is now trying to take some of the hassle out of getting your jeans hemmed; we are offering original hemming service for $15.00 per pair.  Good tailors are usually able to alter jeans using the original hem method for a slightly higher cost than a regular hem.  To learn more about various hemming methods, check out Dacia Ray.  This post has great instructions and visual aids to guide you through the hemming process.

Don't let the inseam length dictate which pair of jeans you wear. Choose your fashion, don't let fashion choose you!

The Perfect Jeans for Active Lifestyles

With the hectic daily lives we all lead, it is no wonder I constantly find myself reaching for my favorite pair of jeans to keep me comfortable throughout my busy days.  Fashion trends my come and go but I am faithful to my jeans because they are just so darn comfortable. Women and men today are more active than they have ever been and they need jeans that fir into their busy lifestyles. 

With the wide variety of cuts, fabrics and washes available in the denim market, it has never been easier to dress for an active lifestyle.  A lightweight jean with a little bit of stretch and a mid-rise, like Red Engine's Midrise Bootcut, provides you with the perfect amount of comfort without compromising any style.  Kasil's Tribeca trouser is another terrific option for women like me who are constantly on the go.  The trouser cut of these jeans make them perfect for the boardroom and the unique wash can easily be dressed up for meeting your friends for cocktails.  Active men also have plenty of denim options to keep them comfortable while still looking great.  Chip and Pepper uses ultra soft denim and features unique washes. Check out the Big Pickle, which is roomier in the thigh more additional comfort, for that perfectly relaxed fit. 

What do you think?  What types of styles, cuts, and fabrics accommodate your active lifestyle?

Julie: I'm looking for plus sized premium denim

Dawn-Marie Asks Julie:  Why are there no plus sizes for jeans?  I was very excited to hear about your site, hoping it would help my jeans problem.  Alas, I find yet another site that talks the good talk, but when I went through and input all my data, there were *no* results whatsoever.

Also, on one of the pages, when it asks about the jeans you "usually buy" I could not input what I usually buy because the waistband is typically 10 or so inches bigger than my waist, and my waist size was the largest you could input as a jeans waistband size.  What's up with that?  I typically have to take the waist of my jeans in 10 inches or so, which results in a large dip in the backside; I've eliminated some of this problem by taking up some of the fabric as a dart into the front pocket.  The jeans fit, but they are unattractive at the waist, so I have to make sure my waist area is always covered.  (My waist is 34 inches, my hips are 56 inches.)  Got any advice for me, or am I doomed to look like a lump in my jeans forever?

- Dawn-Marie

Julie's Answer: I can assure you that you are not doomed forever!  In the field where you enter "usual size", that is typically the size jean usually worn, and not your actual waist measurement.  It is extremely important to us to provide great brands to plus size customers. The plus size community has long been underserved by the apparel industry in general, and we're trying to change that.  We are currently doing a lot of research in this area.  We are dedicated to helping all body shapes and sizes, find great fitting jeans, all while maintaining superior quality and style. 

As for your gapping issue, there is a solution in the works!  One of our brands, Little in the Middle (LITM), is a brand that is dedicated entirely to solving this problem for women. They make their jeans a size smaller in the waistband than the hips to accommodate and hug your curves and eliminate the gapping issue.  We have been working very closely with the LITM founder and pattern maker to include up to a size 22 (and above if we find that there is enough demand).  Within the next month, we will also be adding two new premium plus size brands, JAG jeans and Svoboda, which will go up to size 24 and size 28 respectively.  We will be sending out a newsletter, when these new brands are added to the website, so please don't give up on us yet!

Julie

Julie: How Do I Eliminate My Jeans Zipper Bulge?

Faith, Asks Julie: Hi Julie... I am an asian chick with a wide hips, but a small waist... Which is hard to find a good pair of jeans to fit into, because I have to have a bigger size for my hips, but then a belt to not crack the world! Anyway... I found a pair of jeans at a Vanity store. They are called Sparrow... They are a boy cut jeans which fit me rather nicely, however I have been having a problem... Whenever I sit down the zipper part tends to lump up... Not too attractive... And now I've been noticing that that little lump is still there even though I am standing! Would a different pair of jeans fix the problem?? What to you suggest? I wear 31x29... And I am 5'3", longer legs, short torso... What do you suggest? Faith.

Julie's Answer: Hi Faith, First off, thanks for being the first person to Ask me a fit question. The cut of a boyfriend jean is typically relaxed and tends to have a little extra room all around, which is what is creating the extra bulk around the zipper.  Also, this excess fabric may be due to a higher rise.  For those of us with a shorter torso, jeans with a higher rise can sometimes create unflattering fabric bunching.  To eliminate this problem, a lower front rise with a higher rise in the back to accommodate your curves may be the answer.  A bit of stretch in the fabric will help maintain your jean's shape when sitting and standing.  I would suggest you try for a not too low-rise option, which also happens to be my favorite, the Red Engine Super Sexy Boot Cut in Midnight Vintage wash.  Another option is the Gold Sign Desire,  which is made out of a beautiful fabrication and will hug your curves just right.  Because of your shorter 29" inseam, it may be helpful to opt for an original hem from truejeans.com or your local tailor to help preserve the original detailing of your jeans. I hope this helps your search for the perfect pair of jeans!

Best, Julie

Vanity Sizing - Alive and Well

Have you ever heard the rumor that Marilyn Monroe was a size 12?  Well, it’s no rumor.  Back in the 1950’s Marilyn was actually a size 12.  By today’s standards, Marilyn would be a size 6.  Why does this large discrepancy between sizes exist?  Two words – vanity sizing: the apparel industry’s dirty little secret.

Vanity sizing, or “size inflation, is the phenomenon of ready-to-wear clothing of the same nominal size becoming larger over time”.  Vanity sizing is certainly alive and well, and many American apparel companies use this sizing technique to seduce their customers into purchasing jeans that appeal to the “small body” aspirational archetype that society embraces .  Vanity sizing occurs when clothing companies cut their products larger while labeling them with small size tags.   In this way clothing companies are persuading women everywhere into believing that they haven’t gained pounds or inches in years.  A 2006 Good Morning America segment, found here on YouTube, highlights how three separate women fell victim to vanity sizing.

Why does vanity sizing seem to be less prevalent among men’s clothing?  Although vanity sizing certainly occurs in men’s clothing, it is definitely not as dramatic as the sizing discrepancies we see in women’s clothing.  Men’s clothing sizes have been standardized since the government, needing to outfit Civil War soldiers rapidly, found consistencies among men's measurements and labeled them with sizes that corresponded.  Those sizes, based on exact measurements, are still in use today by men’s clothing manufacturers.  That is why it is much easier for men to buy clothing off the rack without always needing to try things on.  

Women’s clothing on the other hand has not been standardized in almost fifty years.  The last time there was any standardization of women's sizes was in the 1940’s when the U.S. Department of Agriculture did a large-scale study of women's measurements, urged on by the mail-order clothing industry. This standardization was extremely short lived, many garment manufacturers instead developed their own sizing scales using measurements that suited them.  Today, it is becoming more and more common for manufacturers to create various sizing scales, even within their own brand.  Few companies are motivated to conform to a sizing standard because vanity sizing is a source of competitive advantage whereby companies can cater their sizing scales to flatter those who they view to be their “core customers” and influence more frequent purchases.

The vanity-sizing phenomenon has now begun to make its way overseas.  A recent Times article, “Revealed: The Jeans that Tell a Sizeable Lie,” exposes several brands, including H&M, Gap, and French Connection, who have begun practicing vanity sizing.  According to Time’s findings, French Connection seems to be the most embellished brand, with some of their pants being up to six inches larger than what was actually stated on the tags.

Because there is just no standardization in sizes, True Jeans takes the time to collect data and sizing information on every jean we carry.  Thus helping you to determine which size your unique measurements match up with for each style of denim we carry.

Our reviews thus far have been great, and everyone at True Jeans wants to continue to offer premium and niche denim brands to suit every need.  So I guess the question is now, does vanity sizing really change how you purchase clothes?  Or is it just a trend you think will eventually work itself out?  Should apparel companies standardize their sizing scales or continue to diverge? 

Welcome to True Life

Hi there,

I’m Romney Evans, Co-founder and CEO of True Jeans (True Apparel Company). On behalf of my Partner, Jessica Arredondo, myself, and all of the fit specialists and style analysts here at True Jeans, I would like to welcome you to True Life—a lifestyle blog for men and women who want to learn about and discuss how fit, fashion, and designer jeans can fit into their True Life.  Our philosophy of putting “fit before fashion” makes a world where “everything fits you” possible.

We’ve named the blog True Life because, regardless of any notion of beauty, we know that beauty cannot be measured by a size tag or only seen in a mirror’s reflection.  This is a blog written by jeans enthusiasts for jeans enthusiasts, but we also know that there is more to you than just denim!

Our bloggers will write about the ins and outs of the online fashion world, your favorite brands, dressing room fears, new clothing lines, size issues and even men’s fashion.  We will share material that is important to everyone from a twenty-something young professional, to a new mom that’s ready to ditch the maternity wear for awhile, to the confident baby boomer who loves fashion and feels younger than his or her driver’s license would let on.

From a philosophical point of view, we also want to tackle some prickly issues like ‘what is true beauty?’ and (à la Dove's Campaign for Real Beauty) the many differing ideals of modern beauty and fashion.  It is of paramount importance for us to understand and explore these ideals, their benefits and deficiencies.  

To add a more human touch, the blog will feature an interactive section called “Ask Julie” hosted by our in-house fit specialist, Julie Reppucci.  Julie will answer your questions about fit, shopping tips, style advice, or questions about specific brands. In the past, she’s helped panicked guys who want to buy jeans for their girlfriends, and fanatical shoppers who just needed a little extra hand holding. We can’t wait to see what happens when she starts fielding questions in a blogging format.  

At True Jeans, we understand how difficult and frustrating purchasing jeans can be.  Whether you’re shopping in a store with crowded dressing rooms and barracuda-like service, or shopping from an online “mega-portal” that impedes the convenience of one-stop shopping, we know that jeans shopping is traditionally a painful and unpredictable experience.

From a corporate point of view, the goal of this blog is to have the most interaction possible with all True Life readers and True Jeans customers. This blog will also offer insight into the  happenings at True Jeans and the fashion landscape in general. Sure, we’re not afraid to admit that we also want to promote awareness of our convenient one-stop online jeans store and our amazing fit technology that can deliver a perfect fitting pair of jeans without the hassle of having to go to the store and spend hours in the dressing room. Needless to say, you will see a call to action or a link to a product when it is warranted.

Let’s be serious—trying to stay abreast of new styles while also attempting to navigate vanity sizing issues found with many retailers is not an easy task. We pledge to do our best, whether we are playing paparazzi while chatting about celebrity gossip, talking about new happenings with brands, or cutting through online fashion buying in general. We ask you to please read our User Guidelines first, and then participate as much as you can.

So that’s the deal with True Life. You can find great premium denim that fits perfectly while staying current with all things fashionista.  Not a bad deal, if you ask me.

Happy blogging.

Romney Evans
Co-founder and CEO,
True Jeans
(True Apparel Company)

Ask Julie - Welcome Message

Hi, my name is Julie Reppucci, and I’m a Fit Specialist at True Jeans.  My background is in Fashion Design, and I have a lot of experience in custom clothing construction.  I fully understand how important it is to find jeans and clothing that fits great and flatters your unique body type, all while maintaining your own unique style and comfort. The dressing room is a nightmare for most.  At True Jeans, we are working around the clock to eliminate the dressing room and make buying jeans an easy and enjoyable experience.  To find your true fit, you have to take into account your unique body shape as well as your personal style preferences.  At the end of the day it’s all about you.  Tell me your stories about shopping nightmares and successes.  I am excited to hear from you and I look forward to discussing any questions you may have about fit, style advice, fabrics, brands, and sizing options.

True Life User Guidelines

COMMENT GUIDELINES

Our bloggers here at True Jeans really want to know what’s on your mind.  That is our number one goal, but obviously we will need your participation. Feel free to engage our bloggers, ask questions, and tell us what you are thinking! Regular and insightful comments are welcomed. That’s the whole mission here.  Your opinion is important to us! However, please refrain from saying anything which includes profanity or any discriminatory tones.  A good rule to follow here: if you wouldn’t want to repeat it in front of a child, don’t post it in you comment.  We will be monitoring comments simply to ensure that all conversations stay on track. In other words, we ask that you post appropriate comments and questions to blog posts that are valuable to our community and the goals of True Life. 

Now is a section of “small print” items. These are guidelines, after all.  We promise this section won’t be too painful.  First, this blog is run by True Jeans, meaning the Terms of Use http://www.truejeans.com/jeans/terms-of-use and Privacy Policy http://www.truejeans.com/jeans/privacy of www.truejeans.com do apply to True Life. 

COMMENT RESPONSE GUIDELINES

True Jeans will have a number of different bloggers, all of which hold various positions at True Jeans.  It is our hope that by offering you an assortment of voices, the diversity of topics will follow in the same nature.  We ask that since these writers do have a day job, we will respond to comments as soon as possible, but please be patient with them all. 

ONE LAST THING…

Oh, one last disclaimer here.  We would love to have the resources available to handle all customer service or return policy issues on this blog.  Unfortunately, that just is not going to happen. We cannot field all inquires here.  However, your concerns, suggestions, or complaints are important to us and we would like to resolve all issues as soon as possible.

For all customer service needs, we feature a Customer Service FAQ and links page http://www.truejeans.com/jeans/customerservice on our corporate site.  Questions about shipping and returns?  True Jeans has you covered. All information about shipping & returns guidelines can also be found on another FAQ page http://www.truejeans.com/jeans/shipping dedicated to all your concerns and information needs.  Feel free to use the resources on our website. We are more than happy to help out in any way we can.

We look forward to speaking with all of you out there in the blogosphere!  Happy Blogging!